How to find "The One"

And by "the one" I mean "the one pair of jeans you'll like long enough to really wear"

Jun 15, 2025

As a new wave of selvedge and raw denim enthusiasm sweeps the timeline, I wonder if the new recruits will stay members of this eccentric tribe of denim lovers… or if their jeans will wind up re-sold before the first fades even break through.

This new wave is a bit different than ones that came before it. Though cool guys from time immemorial have worn raw denim, the most vocal members of the community have historically been pretty big nerds.

Though to some extent this remains the case (yours truly as proof), this new wave of intrigue seems tinged with something slightly darker. The new boogey-men of “male manipulator” and “performative man” cast long shadows. Selvedge, which I’ve always thought to be a symbol of care, quality, and ethical manufacturing has become to some a signifier of pretension and wealth.

Maybe it’s because so many of the new adopters are of the greasy little bangs, baby tee, and comically wide pants tribe that outsiders are beginning to associate what is essentially just really nice denim with douchebags. (And maybe you think I’m one of them and there’s nothing I can do to change your mind.)

How do I find “the one”

The one jean to rule them all is hard to come by - but if you’re going to be spending a few damn years in a pair, it really ought to rock.

Most important is the fit. For me, that means pockets solidly on the ass, a reasonably high rise, and thighs that give me room to breathe. This formula, of course, differs for everyone, but whatever you choose should fit you reasonably well out of the box. I’ve always found that if you don’t immediately find the jeans fairly flattering and comfortable, you just won’t wear them enough to get them looking cool. Yes, the jeans may be crunchy for the first few weeks and the waist can be a little snug, but if that’s not sorted out relatively fast, you may have goofed the sizing.

The exact style of your jeans varies greatly on your life and your wardrobe. It’s certainly not wrong to get a wide-leg pair, but with some of the trending wonky seams and JNCO-esque pockets, you have to really ask yourself if the jeans will outlive the hype. If you’re rocking workwear and boots, a bit of width is good - but if you’re a bit preppier, maybe something somewhat more tapered could be nice. You’ll know best when you see it.

Without further ado, here are a few contenders:

TCB 50s : The Ones That Always Get Away

Was rocking these religiously until I watched some footage my buddy got from behind on this trip.

I’ve written and posted much about the TCB 50s. The price is right, there’s no crazy fanboy culture around the brand, it’s just straight up good denim. After several months of wear, I came to the unpleasant realization they don’t fit me quite right in the top block - though the legs are damn near perfect.

Now this probably won’t be an issue for you if you’re anything under a size 36 in their jeans. True to Japanese form, they’re not so good at adapting their fit for the larger sizes. (You’ll notice on the size chart that there is no increase in rise from the 34 to 36, which just widens the top block and doesn’t really make it more flattering. )I still love the denim and the details, but if you’re 36 and up, I have an alternative for you…

$175 (Fully in stock.)

Sugar Cane 1947: Ol’ Reliable

I mentioned this pair in my last treatise on raw denim here on The Midletter two years ago. A heavier fabric than the relatively breezy stuff used by TCB, they do yield a very interesting fade (with time). Straight legged and straightforward, these tend to look better on the higher end of the size scale. The details and pockets all seem to be more balanced the bigger your waist is.

These felt a little wide six years ago, but now they’re a pretty standard wide fit. The details are classic, the construction is rock solid. Sugar Cane is really, really hard to beat.

$245 (or less if you look secondhand)

Superstitch LR02 NTL

Ten years ago, when I lived in Paris, Superstitch was just a place to get chainstitch hems done, but in the intervening decade, it’s become a brand unto itself. White jeans are extra hard to find and/or commit to, but these might do the trick. The Europeans love their white jeans, so I feel like I trust them best to execute these.

A natural (not optic white) denim helps get you started on the right foot and the LR02 fit is a no-brainer 50s style silhouette. I feel like it’s rare to see A) good white(ish) jeans and B) ones in a roomier cut. (They do the LR01 fit as well, which is inspired by a 60s 501.) Entirely made on vintage machines, you can really feel the difference here. Maybe if you’re over the dark indigo game, you’ll want to go for the coveted reverse fades on this pair.

360 € (Also available in indigo)

Beautiful faded jacket from Superstitch as a bonus.

APC x L’Etiquette Le Jean : The preppy Parisian

When it comes to raw denim, it’s hard to think of a more quintessential option than the stuff made over at APC. One of the first cuts ever to be made with a sensible rise at the venerable French fashion house, this collab with L’Etiquette badly needs to be revived. With a zip fly, room in the thighs, and a flattering back pocket situation, I was always charmed by these… however, the sizing always eluded me.

TCB Baggy 50

You might think this defeats the purpose of the baggy fit, but I still want the pair to flatter me at least a little. I know Gen-Z has no qualms rocking the sexless, shapeless, enormous jean look, but I have my vanity to appease. Enter the TCB Baggy 50s.

The TCB Baggy 50s solves a lot of the top block fit issues that plague the regular 50s cut. They feature the same great denim, but the fit is entirely different. Baggy, as the name suggests, maybe a slight taper, and a more generous top block. The pockets sit higher on the rear and while the fly is about the same length as on the regular 50s, the rise hits in a more flattering place.

$175 (Currently sold out - keep your eyes peeled.)

TCB 40s

Have I found the one?

I bought these when I had a serious fever and wasn’t quite thinking straight. When they arrived, with an almost too-high rise and tight hips, I thought I’d fucked up… but turns out I love them.

A heavier denim than TCB uses in their 50s jeans, this particular cut is a bit more stylized than I’m used to from the brand, but makes me feel like a cowboy in an old Levi’s ad. A straight leg that leaves plenty of room, the cut excels in so many departments, they basically check all the boxes right out the gate.

They thread the needle perfectly - they make just enough of a statement that they feel worth owning, but versatile enough that they’ll be easy to incorporate into all sorts of outfits, hopefully for years to come.

$211 (Sold out in most sizes, but TCB restocks fairly regularly.)

Brain Dead Type 00: The LA Scenester

Brain Dead’s Type 00 jeans have been sweeping the city of Los Angeles - and for good reason. A fit that’s just classic enough for menswear guys and takes enough risks for the esoteric crowd, they slot really well into almost anyone’s wardrobe. I’d encourage you to try them on because the sizing varies from one denim to another, but with a pair so clearly inspired by Ben Davis work pants - how could you ever go wrong?

$295 (Seems like they’re due for a restock in most color-ways.)

One Yofuketen SOA03XX4-0125: Mom and Pop

While wearing these in the grocery store, a guy came up to me and said, “Brother, the jeans are jeans-ing.”

And honestly what more do you need to know? The husband-and-wife duo behind Ooe Yofuketen is fiendishly devoted to authenticity. They analyze vintage Levi’s threads under microscopes and have even perused the Amoskeag archives (the mill that produced Levi’s denim before 1915). Another WWII style jean, this is a must-have for the purists in our midst. Mine are away getting hemmed, but I’m excited to have them back.

$340 Available exclusively in the USA through Standard & Strange.

For an in-depth look at THE MOST IMPRESSIVE JEANS I’ve been around to date - tune into my Youtube June 22 for my video on Tilden Jeans.

And lastly, FUCK ICE