Late Summer Guide for Geniuses
What to wear this summer you handsome genius
We’re well into August, but thanks to a little something called climate change, we have a helluva lot of summer left. So I suppose now is as good a time as any to talk summer essentials — and yes, they’re actually a little different than last year.
Pleated Short
Looking back on my style guide from last summer, I didn’t even mention shorts. I certainly wore them, albeit begrudgingly… but for whatever reason, I didn’t bring them up in my substack. This summer, I am much less of a shorts snob and I’ve been letting my knees, thighs, and calves breathe.
Last summer I was only wearing cut-offs. The frayed edges and the (usually) workwear fabrics made them feel like they almost weren’t even shorts. But this year I’ve come around to actual shorts. I guess I’m evolving.
Pleated shorts are really feeling right to me this summer. I didn’t think I would like something so preppy, but they just feel sort of breezy and effortless and right. Luckily for us, there are so many brands that make and have made them, we are spoiled for choice.
I’ve worn them a lot and taken loads of pics in them, but the Manresa shorts maybe turned my whole summer style around. They’re called the Louis short - they’re coming back soon - and they come in a perfect 6” inseam. A fairly light twill with generous pleats, a perfect rise, and a cuff to keep the width and structure at the hem - these are so fucking good. (They’re still available in blue in L and XL.)
I bought two pairs of vintage Ralph Lauren shorts off ebay and am taking them in to be hemmed shortly… I’ll keep you posted on how they look once I’ve gotten the inseam down. (Those are a default 10” inseam - much too long in my book.)
Affordable tank watch —- Omega and then Timex
There are plenty of scaring the hoes type watches, but a gold tank watch on a leather strap is definitely not one of them. The obvious choice is Cartier, but Cartier is expensive, and in some cases, I believe, not worth it. Usually when it comes to watches, I say save up for the one you really want… but this is an exception.
Except for some older and very expensive watches, Cartiers use a quartz movement. So if you’re a purist, it kind of just feels like you’re only paying for the aesthetic. If you don’t mind, all good, but if that bugs you - let’s see our less expensive options.
Now, not exactly cheap, but Omega has plenty of tank watch variations you can choose from. These are coming in anywhere from $500-$2k, but keep your eyes peeled on ebay and the jewelry trays at your local antique store - there isn’t too big of a market for these. If you don’t mind the quartz movement of it all (without the Cartier premium) - Timex has some very good-looking tanks available on ebay as well.
And if you’re patient, maybe you can snag the next release of the Timex x Noah tank watch, which I wear fairly often and absolutely adore.
Camp Moc
After Milan Fashion Week, I realized I needed a new category of shoe. I was walking miles every day in the heat, usually in loafers and I really needed something better. I personally hate the loafers and shorts combo that people have been doing and I also deeply dislike boat shoes… so what is a fellow to do? Something that dressed up well, could walk for miles, AND work with shorts?? A tall order.
Camp Mocs were the answer! To the un-trained eye (and unscrupulous copywriter) these may seem like boat shoes, but the big difference is the sole. A heavy lugged sole manages to balance out a bunch of the wonky boat shoe details on the upper and gives it a rustic edge. I had a big credit on Mr. Porter so bought the absolutely most expensive option: J.M. Weston…. but don’t hold it against me, the ones from Timberland and G.H. Bass are good too.
I really like them in a glossy black, which creates a nice bit of tension with their workwear-y silhouette.
Christian Dior (Vintage Monsieur)
Let me put you on, folks. A while back, I found two Christian Dior shirts in a vintage store for $20 a pop. I thought I’d happened upon a crazy deal, but it seems that this general price range persists on eBay.
Dior Monsieur was a line that ran from the 70s-90s, at which point LVMH bought Dior and created Dior Homme. There are loads of absolutely delicious shirts in the $20-$50 range and there appears to be a fairly decent spread of sizes. Many have a chic little “Dior” embroidered on the breast pocket and most are partly polyester, giving them a silky sheen. As opposed to the 100% cotton Oxford shirts you might normally wear, these are much less Ivy League and much more French coke-head.
As is often the case with older poly-blend shirting, they have become very lightweight and breathable. You probably wouldn’t rock these in the heat of the day, but in the evening if you’re dressing yourself up… I think these are an excellent choice.
And if you’re going to get two: get one in a safe color you know you’d wear and one weird color/pattern to match with something else weird you don’t often wear!